For someone who had not worn anything but skirts with riding boots and flip flops for 15 years, I have taken a crash course in britches. What shoes work with which style pant, what styles look best on which shape bodies and which details on pants to omit or to add when having them custom made. I called my friend Tina Adams, wardrobe stylist and the 'Keeper of the Vault' of fashion secrets and styling tips to make sure what I have learned is 100% fact and not opinion.
So, here's the cliff notes to Pants 101.
Rule 1. No pant is flattering if it is baggy in your bottom or hips.
If you want a full leg/wide leg - it must fit through the hips and top of thigh before it gets full.
Tina calls this saggy bottom syndrome. As a seamstress - I see 2 things wrong with the fit. The crotch is too long and the hips need to be taken in along the sides.
Rule 2. Having NO details on the butt can almost draw MORE attention to it. This rule really only applies if you are tucking in your shirt. When I wear these pants, I am super self conscience about my rear. Pockets would help me disguise panty lines.
Tina made a great point regarding this Rule. She said that some detail on backside is good to have...but the location of the welt pocket or patch pocket is crucial.
Refer to 'YourStyleVault' fashion blog to read how Tina goes into detail on the placement of pockets.
On this pant, I added the pockets on the booty and added button. I feel less eyes on my bottom.
Previous to Stitch-It, whenever I would buy pants in a store - there was always extra fabric in the front crotch area. This made me look like there was room for "man parts" and never looked very feminine. Which...is probably why I started a skirt company! Now, I can decrease my front crotch length and it is perfect!
Rule 3. One of the most common alterations we do (outside of hemming to correct length) is sewing up the side pockets on a women's pant. One side is sewn shut, the other is not. When custom making my pants, I do not add side pockets.
Rule 4. Pants with this much of a break (a break is the fold in the front bottom of your pant) is too long. When your pants are too long, it looks sloppy and can actually make your pant appear as though it doesn't fit.
Long pants look great with heals. These needed to be hemmed 1.5 inches to wear with this 2" heel.
If you plan on wearing your pants with flats AND heals, then you should hem pants to the ankle.
Which, brings me to the ankle pant. Which is MY new favorite style. Ironically, it is also the style pant that Tina encourages her audience to wear.
Rule 5. The ankle pant is universally the most versatile. This is because you can wear ANY shoe type because heal height is not a factor. It has now become my favorite style because I want to wear my new pants very casually and also in a polished professional setting.
Tina Adams from 'YourStyleVault' is one of my most favorite people. She has a counseling degree, which I think is what makes her so good at what she does. Women often feel shy about opening up their closet to someone and to bring someone into their private place can be hard. Tina shows women what key items to spend money on, and which items not to...and where to get them with her discounts. She has 15 years of styling under her belt and is fascinating to watch her put things together.
This info is in her Style Vault which is available through a monthly subscription of $14.99. What a deal! I almost took the tags off a pair of $188 white denim jeans and then read her blog on white jeans and was SOOO glad I could return the ones I purchased. Tina saved me money from making mistakes like this several times. Sign up here to be a member of the vault.